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Thread: DIY DRLs

  1. #1
    a.k.a. T3man MisterAU's Avatar
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    DIY DRLs

    I thought I'd post some info on DRLs as they are currently a hot topic around the place.

    The first point for anyone considering them is to get good quality approved units - not the p!ssy little blue/orange/red/pick-your-colour strips that emit hardly any light. You need at least 1 watt per LED to be effective during daylight hours.

    There are now plenty of good choices out there - I prefer pure white. The other consideration is where to fit them so they don't look add-on - this is up to you're own taste but have a good look at the lines of your vehicle and get something that blends or follows those lines.

    Now the real point of the exercise - how to wire them up LEGALLY.

    ADRs call for DRLs to be deactivated whenever headlights (or park lights; you have the option) are switched on.

    The ADR approved kits will have the proper relay included and a wiring diagram and possibly even the complete loom supplied for a plug 'n' play set-up.

    However if you buy a cheaper kit this is what you'll need to do ... first decide whether you want the lights on ALL the time while your ignition is on, or whether you want them switchable ie. able to be totally deactivated.

    Then decide if you want them to go off via park lights or low beam. In the wiring diagram I will identify the options.

    You need to be able to locate the following wires on your vehicle ... ACC, IGN, Park or Low Beam lights; usually the best places are under the dash for the IGN, ACC wires and behind your headlights for the parkers or low beam.

    If you don't have a wiring schematic you will need a simple test light ... and some time. Generally for later Falcons parkers are a brown wire, low beam is green/orange, earth is black. IGN and ACC wires are basic yellow and carry various colour stripes.

    Here's your list of parts ...

    LED kit (DUH!) The rest depends on how much comes in your kit so check it out against the following ...

    A changeover relay which should include necessary terminal connectors (and fuse too),

    In-line fuse if one not with relay (5 amps is adequate; the relay will have a 20 or 30 so just swap it out for a 5),

    An "eye" terminal for earthing connection,

    A couple of "quikloks" (or scotchlocks)

    A switch (toggle or whatever takes your fancy - remember you have to mount it somewhere so the simpler the better) if you want to be able to manually isolate the DRLs.

    Some cable - two colours; one being black. You'll have to work out approx length according to which system you want to employ and how much is supplied with the DRL kit.

    Tools you need will be pliers and a Phillips head driver. Wire strippers and crimping pliers are helpful but not absolutely necessary as long as you have a good pair of pliers.

    You may need a drill with 1/8" bit and a self tapper for mounting the relay. Depending what is called for in mounting the DRL kit you may need extra fixtures for them as well.

    The diagrams ...





    Now if you want the DRLs to stay on with parkers, but switch off with the low beam instead, you just tap into the orange/green wire going to your headlights instead of the brown one. This is the connection where a quiklok is easy - no need to worry about cutting and splicing or resoldering wires as there is so little current (less than 0.5 amps) a quiklok is all that is necessary. The same for the supply to your dash switch if you decide to use one - quiklok onto either an IGN or ACC cable behind the fuse block or wherever you can access under the column on your particular model.

    PS Oh one last thing to remember when mounting the DRLs - the higher the better. You see heaps of them mounted down very low like fog lights, even on factory jobs. This does very little to help your visibilty due to the restriction of visibility over road undulations. If you can't mount them at the height of your low beams or close to it then you may as well just drive with your low beams on during the day.

    PPS ... THE FUSE ... if the relay doesn't come with a fuse you are advised to fit an in-line type and preferably it should be as close to the energy source as possible ... that means in the wire which connects to the ACC or IGN and feeds to the switch or relay before terminal #30.
    Australian Muscle Car ... "It is a sensational high performance vehicle; a beautifully engineered and immensely capable four door Grand Tourer or 'GT' in the truest sense of that tradition."

    No prize for guessing what car they were referring to ... OWN THE ROAD ...

  2. #2
    Very enlightening, thank you.

    I'm going to change that term to "Jeff of all trades" LOL.
    “…The lies (Western slander) which well-meaning zeal has heaped round this man are disgraceful to ourselves only…How one man single-handedly, could weld warring tribes and wandering Bedouins into a most powerful and civilized nation in less than two decades….A silent great soul, one of that who cannot but be earnest. He was to kindle the world; the world’s Maker had ordered so." - Thomas Carlyle

  3. #3
    a.k.a. T3man MisterAU's Avatar
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    heheheh Youssef, you been reading my profile. LOL.
    Australian Muscle Car ... "It is a sensational high performance vehicle; a beautifully engineered and immensely capable four door Grand Tourer or 'GT' in the truest sense of that tradition."

    No prize for guessing what car they were referring to ... OWN THE ROAD ...

  4. #4
    Hahaha nah mate just saw that. Psml when I just checked it though because my post originally said "I should start calling you Jack".

    Great write-up.
    “…The lies (Western slander) which well-meaning zeal has heaped round this man are disgraceful to ourselves only…How one man single-handedly, could weld warring tribes and wandering Bedouins into a most powerful and civilized nation in less than two decades….A silent great soul, one of that who cannot but be earnest. He was to kindle the world; the world’s Maker had ordered so." - Thomas Carlyle

  5. #5
    7753 - 5030 HSE2's Avatar
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    wow. thanks Jeff.
    History is a statement, the future is a question.

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