Ford XB fairmont restoration question

I am looking to restore my 1973, 4 door 302 V8 3 speed auto burnt orange ORIGINAL xb fairmont that has been in storage for 12 years. Can anyone give me a rough cost on what it would take to restore it to a daily driver?

I am not an auto enthusiast so i will be paying for most of this work after i have saved up (12 months?)

• Paint - 5k? (minimal rust)
• Secondhand Engine /drivetrain/gearbox : $3k? From what car?
• New carpets : 1k? (front is ripped)
• Re vinyl (or leather) the seats and trim - 3k? (front seats are ripped in middle)
• Upgraded brakes. Rear drum breaks sucked at slowing the car down. Go for 2 piston calipers at front, 1 at rear?
• New suspension? (It squeeks which i can live with but it used to drive like a boat)<-Very dangerous
• New rims/tyres = 3k (i think the old rims where 15's with 175mm width which was far too skinny)

Driving this car used to kill my fuel budget since it was a 3 speed column shift with a carby engine. I want something with a bit of speed, that wont attract too much attention (high idle/ high stall) and is good on fuel for cruising(good gear ratios and fuel efficient). Any recommendations or advice? I was reading the thread about the end of atmo engine so does adding a turbo seem like a good compromise?

Have i missed anything and how good are my estimates?

get you own block recoed to keep the numbers oe .

Squeeky suspension is just the need to grease the inner lower arm bushes.
you could consider later rubber bushed joints.?

Re the squeaking, nah mate the more common fault of this was the spring saddles !
Mind you ball joints tie rod ends can also do similar but considering her age/storage if ever replaced ? I would rebuild/renew the whole front end.

By the welcome Mr T - great ol girl, if in my possession I would be looking forward rebuilding her all the best.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

I am not an auto enthusiast so i will be paying for most of this work after i have saved up (12 months?)

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]Paint - 5k? (minimal rust)

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Very optimistic. I'd say 10K for a full spray.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]Secondhand Engine /drivetrain/gearbox : $3k? From what car?

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Reco your original engine. Having a matching numbers car (assuming it still is) It will add a lot of value. You will find it almost impossible to find a cheap running low KM Clevo anywhere. Remember these engines went out of production 33 years ago. I think your up for $3~5K for the engine and $1,500 for the box. Plus maybe a converter.

Trying to add a late model engine will cost a bomb if your paying a workshop $100 an hour to fabricate stuff. You could add an Edelbrock EFI2 system (google it) or similar there are a few brands, to add some driveabilty and fuel economy whilst keeping some originality.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]New carpets : 1k? (front is ripped)

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Easy job, less than that Look up Tru Fit Carpets

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]Re vinyl (or leather) the seats and trim - 3k? (front seats are ripped in middle)

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$3k will get you re-trim.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]Upgraded brakes. Rear drum breaks sucked at slowing the car down. Go for 2 piston calipers at front, 1 at rear?

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There are Kits around to put the PBR fronts on, the restriction being wheels. Bigger brakes usually require 17" or bugger rims to fit over them.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]New suspension? (It squeeks which i can live with but it used to drive like a boat)<-Very dangerous

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As FTE217 the best option is simply to rebuild the original. You will be amazed how good it will be without 40 year old ball joints/rubbers/shock. Then add an anti-sway bar. It wont turn into a new BMW but will be OK as a daily.

I'd apply the same principle to the brakes. New Rotors, Drums, shoes, cylinders add High quality Pads, replace the old rubber brake hoses and fluids. Again expecting a 40 year old brake hose to not be perished is illogical.

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Originally Posted by Mr T

[*]New rims/tyres = 3k (i think the old rims where 15's with 175mm width which was far too skinny)

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$3K is plenty. Go for a classic 5 spoke style in 17" with 7" front and 8" rear. Bigger than std, but not silly. Of course if you go with refurbished original brakes you can run 15" wheels which will suit the car better and save some cash.

And run bigger tyres. 235's on the front and 255 on the rear. That will help with ride and protect the rims from gutter rash and pot holes.

All that is just the beginning. You will run into a thousand little things. You will need new door rubbers, they come in a kit from Rare Spares with all you need but it's $1100 from memory. Uni joints, etc etc

It's a big project wont be cheap or easy. The upside is you will have a car that's worth $30K+, increasing in value and make you smile as you drive it.

RePaint exterior panels (and remove rust) : 10k <- Not painting engine bay, underhood, boot or interior cabin panels as i am respraying it burnt orange and need to save cash.
Recon Engine /Carby and transfer to unleaded : 5k?
Carpet $500
Retrimmed sears, headliner and door trims : 3k
New Rubber/Seals kit: $1100
Rebuild Suspension and add anti-sway bar $2k?
New Rotors, Drums, shoes, cylinders add High quality Pads, replace old rubber brake hoses and fluids. $2k?
17" Rims with 7" front and 8" Rims - 1.5k
235's front tyres/255 rear tyres - 1.5k
Polish Bumpers - $100?

Thanks Guys, i will get the engine reconditioned. Its all original but i did get the engine reconditioned back in 2002 from a mob in Morley (WA) and it was a terrible job. The car was/is very very slow (my late model 4cyl camry would def beat it off the line). Any recommendations in Perth for a reptuable the engine rebuild? Is WA Suspensions still the goto shop for suspension rebuilds? Or can the guys that do the engine also rebuild the brakes and suspension?

I still have the 8 track so i will probably reinstall this. I wont be re-attaching the bloody heavy iron bull bar or the rear window venetians. (i think i lost the venetians)

If you pm Randel/project or RW here on the forum they are Perth guys who I'm sure can advise reliable companies to look up.

Sandro Precipe (spelling) down Maddington area, does a pretty tough Clevo rebuild.
W.A.Suspensions, I prefer Peter @ A.P.E Suspension @ Landsdale, he was formerly @ W.A.Suspensions.
Painter? Brown Brothers down Waroona way.
They do alot of restoration work on steel bumper GT's, including mechanical rebuilds.
They are not cheap, nor are they quick, but they are thorough in their workmanship.

Randel is in the tyre business, he did a great deal for me with tyres, give him a pm, tell him what you want, what your budget is.
I am sure he can help you out.

Thanks, i have emailed Randel.
Is it bad ettique to email Sandro, Peter and Brown Brothers for a rough verbal quote even though im a while away from securing the funds to start? Or best to contact them when i am ready. Just need a rough budget.

It seems Sandro is with SCM in High Wycombe ? http://www.scmraceengines.com.au/The...heSCMTeam.aspx

Yep, that's Sandro, he did a mates Clevo up in an XW GT.
How good is his work? the car was driven to Bathurst from Perth, and raced at the GT Nationals.
The car was driven to Sandown raced & driven back to Perth.
The car is regularly driven & raced..
I have never dealt with Sandro, or Brown Brothers.
You could ring Peter, explain what you are after, ask for a quote, Peter will give you worst case/ best case scenario, remember most quotes are only valid for around 30 days.
In all honesty, when you are cashed up, I would approach them, parts prices vary, labor costs vary.